As someone who has navigated the often overwhelming skincare aisle, I often found myself yearning for a more natural alternative. Shelves packed with plastic and all those synthetic ingredients just made me wish for something better. Then I discovered lotion bars and my skincare journey transformed! Making these solid moisturizers not only tapped into my creativity but also aligned with my sustainability goals. Join me as I share the joys and secrets of crafting your own lotion bars!
Table of Contents
Unlocking the Ingredients: What Makes a Lotion Bar?
Have you ever wondered what goes into a lotion bar? These compact wonders can transform your skincare routine. But what’s the secret behind their effectiveness? It’s all about the ingredients. Let’s dive in!
Understanding Butters: The Building Blocks of Lotion Bars
At the heart of every lotion bar are butters. These rich, creamy ingredients are essential. They provide nourishment and hydration for your skin. Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter are both high in vitamins and minerals. Shea Butter also contains phytosterols that aid in skin repair and protection.
Oils: The Lubricating Magic for Your Skin
Next up, we have oils. These liquids impart the luxurious silky texture we adore. Oils like Coconut, Jojoba, and Sweet Almond work wonders. They lock in moisture and create a protective barrier. Imagine a cosy blanket for your skin, keeping it safe from dryness. These oils also absorb quickly, leaving skin feeling soft but not greasy.
It’s important that these oils are heat stable and this is for 2 reasons. Firstly, the lotion bar formulation will be heated to melt all the ingredients. Oils like Rosehip or Chia Seed oil are not heat stable and would be damaged by the heat.
Secondly, infusing cannabis into the oils also requires heat. Cannabis is a powerful antioxidant which helps to stop free radical damage. You can also infuse for CBD content, which makes the lotion bar very effective for localised pain relief instead of a CBD balm.
Waxes: The Solidifying Secret Behind Successful Bars
What holds everything together? This is where the benefits of waxes truly shine. Beeswax is a popular choice, offering stability. It’s like the glue in your lotion bar. Waxes help give the bar its shape while also providing a barrier against the elements. A vegan alternative is Candelilla wax. If you’ve ever had a lotion bar melt away, you know how important wax is!
Getting the Right Ratios: Why It’s Crucial for Your Bars’ Consistency
Finally, you can’t overlook the importance of proportions. Getting the right ratios of butters, oils, and waxes can make or break your lotion bar. Too much wax? Your bar might be too hard to use or drag across your skin. Too little and it could be squishy when you hold it or simply melt away too easily. Experimenting with ratios is part of the fun, but it requires patience and precision.
Creating lotion bars is a blend of art and science. Understanding each ingredient’s role helps us craft the perfect bar. What will you make?
Your First Lotion Bar: A Simple Recipe
Making a lotion bar is easier than you might think. You only need a few basic materials. The links are affiliate links which make it easier for me to keep them up to date, and easier for you to ensure you get the right ingredients.
Formulation
Stage 1: Oil Stage (heated to above 75℃/167℉)
- 50g *Cocoa Butter
- 32g Cannabis-Infused *Olive Oil (read this blog for full instructions)
- 16g *Beeswax
- 1g *Vitamin E
- 1g Essential oils of your choice
100g Total - *Silicone moulds to shape your bars
Having everything ready makes the process smoother. Who likes running around looking for a missing ingredient?
Method
- Get your double boiler ready. This is a heatproof container, like a Pyrex or stainless steel jug, placed in a saucepan with boiling water. This protects the ingredients to be heated from being scorched. You can read more about the tools I use in this blog Tools & Equipment for Making DIY Skincare Products at Home.
- Add the Beeswax, Cocoa Butter and Olive oil into the inner pan of the double boiler to start to melt gently. Once they are all liquid, take the inner pan out of the saucepan and put it on a heat-safe surface to cool down. Use a silicone spatula to GENTLY stir the mix as it cools.
- Once it has started to turn opaque and look like custard, add the Vitamin E and essential oils you have chosen.
- Quickly pour into the silicone moulds and leave to harden up. If you already have the silicone mould on a small tray, it is easy to put the bars into the fridge to really harden up overnight.
- Next day, take the mould out of the fridge and let it rest for 5 minutes. This will form a little condensation and then the lotion bars will be easy to pop out. Wrap them in some baking parchment for storage in a cupboard or drawer – not in the sun!
This formulation makes 100g in weight. Depending on the size of silicone mould, you’ll probably get 4 guest soap-size lotion bars. Any larger than that and they are a bit unwieldy to use. Use 2 at a time, and a soap dish is a great place to keep it for when you come out of the shower. They should last between 6 months and a year, but that also depends on the shelf life of the oils you used.
Troubleshooting
We all make mistakes, right? Here are some common pitfalls and how to avoid them:
- Too Hard? If your lotion bar is rock solid, you might have used too much beeswax. Adjust the ratios next time.
- Greasy Feel? This is personal taste as to how “oily” your oils feel to you. Olive oil is quite oily, whereas Rice Bran oil is much “drier” on the skin. Make notes of what you used and be accurate when weighing the ingredients out.
- Scents Fading? Essential oils can fade and some citrus oils like Grapefruit don’t project very well in lotion bars. Rather than adding more essential oils, which can be dangerous and irritate your skin, choose oils that give a lot of fragrance in a small amount. Lavender, Geranium and Patchouli all give a lot of fragrance that lasts.
Give some thought as to how and when you will use your lotion bars. If it is mid-Winter, Peppermint will be too cooling on your skin. However, Spearmint will be wonderful in the Summer. You might be interested to read more about other essential oils.
Level Up: Exploring Emulsified Lotion Bars
That first formulation is what I would call a solid balm, but the world seems to love calling them lotion bars, so who am I to be a stick-in-the-mud? They don’t need a preservative (the Vitamin E is an antioxidant and NOT a preservative) because there is no water in them.
What Are Emulsified Lotion Bars?
Emulsified lotion bars are quite the innovation in skincare. They combine the nourishing properties of lotion with the convenience of a solid format. These bars are made of oils, butters, and waxes, but they also include water. Traditional lotion usually comes in a liquid form, full of water, but emulsified lotion bars defy that norm.
So, how do they work? Essentially, they bring together oil and water through emulsification. This is where science meets beauty!
The Magical Role of Emulsifying Wax
Now, let’s talk about emulsifying wax. This is the superhero of our lotion bars. Emulsifying wax is a blend of fatty acids that help keep the oil and water mixed together. Think of it as the glue that binds everything. Without this wax, the ingredients would separate, leaving you with a messy concoction instead of a smooth, luscious lotion bar.
Emulsifying wax prevents that. It creates a stable mixture. When you apply the lotion bar to your skin, it melts, spreading hydration and nourishment evenly.
There are many different types of emulsifying wax that are similar, but some have better properties. The one I am using here is Olivem® 1000 which is also available in different countries under different names, so I’ve left links below to ensure you get the right one.
Formulation
Stage 1: Oil Stage (heated to above 75℃/167℉)
- 8g *Beeswax
- 34g *Shea Butter
- 10g *Cocoa Butter
- 14g Cannabis-Infused *Sweet Almond oil (see infusion notes above)
- 11g Cannabis-Infused *Fractionated Coconut oil (see infusion notes above)
- 15g *Olivem® 1000 emulsifier
Stage 3: Cool Stage (below 40℃/104℉)
- 5g Cornstarch or Arrowroot Powder
- 1g *Saliguard® PCG
- 1g *Vitamin E
- 1g Essential oils of your choice
100g Total - *Silicone moulds to shape your bars
Method
- Put all the Stage 1 ingredients in a double boiler to heat gently.
- When they are all melted, take the inner pan off the double boiler and put it on a heat-safe surface. Quickly whisk in the Arrowroot or Cornstarch and ensure there are no lumps.
- Allow the mixture to cool until it is opaque and as thick as a custard. Ideally it should be below 40 ℃ / 104 ℉. Stir in the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly to ensure they are evenly distributed throughout before it is too hard.
- Pour into the silicone moulds and leave to harden. Then place in a fridge to harden up overnight.
- Remove from the moulds and wrap in baking parchment. Store out of direct sunlight.
This recipe is for 100g and makes roughly 4 small lotion bars, depending on the mould size.
Tips for Maintaining Lotion Bar Quality Over Time
Who doesn’t want their lotion bar to last? Here are some tips I’ve found helpful:
- Store it properly: Keep your lotion bars in a cool, dry place.
- Seal well: Use an airtight container to prevent moisture from creeping in.
- Check the texture: If it starts to look grainy, it might be time to recycle it.
Remember, skincare should feel good, so keep your lotion bars fresh and ready!
Getting Creative: Speciality Lotion Bars
The first lotion bar traps in moisture, which is why it is great to use after you have just towelled dry after your shower. Your skin is well-hydrated, and the lotion bar locks that moisture in. The oil and butter also nurture your skin.
The second lotion bar contains water so it does the same as the first one, but it also brings its own hydration properties. But how so? You see that there is no water in the formulation, yet there is a preservative. The emulsifier binds oil and water together, so the emulsifier is still ready to receive water and bind it together with the oils and butters.
If you step out of your shower wet, before you dry off, apply the lotion bar. The emulsifier will grab that moisture and turn instantly into a lotion on your skin! The bar melts slowly at skin temperature and the lotion sinks in deep into your skin. The emulsifier creates a lamellar crystal structure which mimics your own skin’s layers. The lotion that you massage in will penetrate into the deeper layers over an 8-hour period, delivering the CBD where you want it.
The preservative is because the bar will be wet after you have used it, so make sure it drains well in a ribbed soap dish so that it does not sit in a puddle of water.
Conditioning Lotion Bar
There are active ingredients in this formulation that are multifunctional. They work equally well on your hair as well as on your skin, which can be hard to believe – until you try it! Prepare to be amazed.
Originally people wanted products like this when they were travelling so they didn’t have multiple bottles of products and, to be honest, the early forms of these bars were not that great on either skin or hair. Times have changed and so have the ingredients and this formulation is top spa quality.
Formulation
Stage 1: Oil Stage (above 75℃/167℉)
- 20g *Mango Butter
- 13g Cannabis-Infused *Avocado Oil (you could use a double infusion to make it stronger)
- 35g *BTMS 50 Emulsifying Wax
- 18g *Cetyl Alcohol
- 3g *Stearic Acid
Stage 2: Water Stage (room temperature)
- 7g *Glycerin
- 2g *Panthenol Powder
- 2g *Cationic Guar Gum
Stage 3: Cool Stage: (below 40℃/104℉)
- 1g *Saliguard® PCG
- 1g *Vitamin E
- 1g Essential oils of your choice
100g Total - *Silicone moulds to shape your bars
Method
- Put all the Stage 1 ingredients in a double boiler to heat gently.
- While they are melting, combine the Glycerin, Panthenol Powder and Guar Gum together in to separate heat-proof bowl into a slurry or paste. This will stop the Guar Gum from going lumpy later on.
- When the Stage 1 ingredients are all melted, take the inner pan off the double boiler and put it on a heat-safe surface. Quickly whisk in the Stage 2 paste and ensure there are no lumps.
- Keep stirring gently with a silicone spatula until the mixture is cool and below 40 ℃ / 104 ℉. Stir in the Stage 3 ingredients and mix thoroughly to ensure they are evenly distributed throughout before it is too hard.
- Pour into the silicone moulds and leave to harden. Then place in a fridge to harden up overnight.
- Remove from the moulds and wrap in baking parchment. Store out of direct sunlight.
Creating Your Own Unique Signature Scents
The best part? You can create your own signature scents! It’s super fun and personal. Start with a base of oils or butters, then add essential oils to get the fragrance just right. The world is your oyster. Think about your favourite scents and mix them into your lotion bars. You could also try these 10 Easy Essential Oil Perfume Blends Inspired by Famous Perfumes.
In essence, lotion bars are about innovation and personalisation. Whether it’s for skincare or aromatherapy, they add a touch of creativity to our routines.
Troubleshooting Your Lotion Bar Adventures
Ever had a batch that just didn’t set right? It can be pretty frustrating. Here are some issues you might encounter:
- Grainy texture: This occurs when your oils or butters cool too quickly.
- Overly soft bars: This usually happens when there’s too much liquid oil or not enough hard butters. It can also happen in a very hot Summer.
- Unmoulding challenges: If your bars stick in the mould, next time, leave them out of the fridge for 5 minutes and some condensation will start to form. This will allow the bars to release easier.
You can’t really reheat these lotion bars because the preservative and essential oils would be damaged by the reheating. Make small batches and pay attention to accurate weighing. If you get problems, adapt the formulation to suit you better in the next small batch.
Tips for Maintaining the Shelf Life of Your Bars
Finally, let’s ensure your creations last:
- Use clean utensils to avoid contamination.
- Store them in a cool, dry place to prevent melting.
- Wrap them in baking parchment to protect them from scuffs and dust.
So next time you find yourself in a lotion bar dilemma, remember these tips. With some adjustments, you’ll be crafting perfect bars in no time!
Conclusion
Crafting your own lotion bars is a transformative experience that combines creativity, sustainability, and self-care. These compact, nourishing wonders simplify your skincare routine while allowing you to personalise them to your exact needs and preferences. By mastering the balance of butters, oils, and waxes, experimenting with unique scents, and exploring advanced formulations like emulsified or conditioning bars, you can create products that are as effective as they are environmentally friendly. These versatile creations bring a touch of luxury to everyday life. So dive in, experiment, and enjoy the art and science of skincare innovation!
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